Exploring the Significance and Diversity of Memorial Jewelry for Ashes

1. Introduction to Memorial Jewelry

Memorial jewelry, also known as remembrance jewelry or cremation jewelry, has recently been receiving much research attention and discussion in the death care and bereavement literature. While the term "memorial jewelry" is currently the predominant designation, in the 18th and 19th centuries, when such jewelry first came into popularity, the term "mourning jewelry" was more commonly employed. Initially created to commemorate British monarchs, this jewelry was worn as a sign of perpetual respect through the continuing remembrance of the life and sacrifices of the dead royal figure long beyond their death date. It reached its zenith of popularity during the Victorian era when it was not uncommon for ashes of deceased relatives to be inserted into or affixed to pieces of jewelry in a form of remembrance because it was assumed the deceased would be forever near those who mourned them.

As many courts went into formal periods of mourning during this time of extreme popularity, most forms of ostentatious jewelry, such as diamonds and colored stones, were forbidden by royal decree. This edict allowed for the disposable income of the then rising middle class to be put into maintaining the large expenses of the funerals and wakes of their loved ones and into the "now" disposable jewelry they could wear in constant memory of the dead long into the future. With the ability to now afford jewelry, people continued to create and purchase replicas of the mourning jewelry popular at that time. Such jewelry encompassed a large array of pieces from lockets, pins, and necklaces to bracelets, rings, buttons, and brooches. These pieces were crafted in a variety of materials and styles. Many different types of jewelry offer some form of remembrance, an extensive and diverse group of death-related objects referred to today as mourning relics.

1.1. Definition and Purpose

Memorial jewelry for ashes is completely self-explanatory, as it is jewelry that contains the cremated ashes of loved ones. The primary reason that people use memorial jewelry for ashes is to honor the memory of a loved one or pet. It is a way to keep them close even when they are gone. Memorial jewelry for ashes can be worn every day and put on display when not in use. It brings comfort and closure because it comes with a keepsake box that can also be displayed. People who wear memorial jewelry for ashes can look fashionable and carry a special meaning every day. There are plenty of designs available, such as heart cremation urn memorial necklace and pet memorial locket, which can be used to store ashes within them. The best memory pendants for ashes are jewelry accessories that provide us with an opportunity to fully commemorate our loved ones who have passed on and keep them with us. It isn’t a great feeling knowing our precious ones are still with us no matter where we are or what we do every time.

1.2. Historical and Cultural Significance

The funeral practices and customs seen today can be traced back to ancient times. Funerary traditions exist as a way to remember loved ones and to process the reality of losing someone important from our lives. Not only is the manner of death important, but the way in which a body is handled after death reveals how dear the deceased person was to the mourning family. The more care and effort put into the arrangements, the more the mourners loved and cherished their lost family member. Funerary objects and memorial jewelry are an important part of the funeral practice, and because these small objects are often relatively valuable, they can facilitate the consideration of social rank and economic stratum of the interred.

Jewels and the act of adorning the body are by no means an invention of the modern human era; many ancient graves have been found filled with jewelry and riches. In ancient Greece, the Attic funeral incorporated both funerary clothing and a means to keep the spirit safely enclosed in the earth, given to the dead by closest relatives. The most important type of bowls is represented by prostasia, derived from the Greek verb to protect, which are spherical, thick vases used as sepulchral deposits, either in the tomb or as grave markers. This object was placed in censed tombs of higher-ranking people, with the purpose of protecting the buried from all evil, especially from the “shadows of the night.” Used in cases of non-burned corpses, when made of glass or metallic bronze, they were filled with perfumed unguents, and it was important to refill these vases periodically to stop the ghosts residing from polluting the living. The woman could wear her jewels—in ancient times, necklaces and earrings were the most common burial gifts—but she could also use new costume jewelry made of hair, and iron clasps for clothing have been found in the graves.

2. Types of Memorial Jewelry

The onset of remembrance jewelry can be traced back to the Europeans in the 1800s when they began to use quartz or diamonds to craft jewelry that would be worn in memory of deceased loved ones. Today, memorial jewelry has advanced to become a highly diversified range of stylish and personal jewelry that can cater to the needs of a wide range of people. The diversity of memorial jewelry currently available in the market today is interestingly broad in both the cultural aspects as well as the manufacturing aspects. In terms of the manufacturing or the general categorization of the relics used in these types of jewelry, manufacturers of memorial jewelry have used various

types of materials like gold, silver, diamonds, glass, or sapphire in the crafting of these pieces of jewelry.

There is a wide variety of personalized jewelry ownerships that have been designed and made for the use of personalized spouses and family members of people who have been cremated. There are those that are still quite traditional with the casket format, and there are the more stylish models with the cameo portrait display style. Acceptable designs can easily be picked up from memorial jewelry manufacturers or be agreed upon with the individual manufacturers. However, other types of personalized accessories like rosary bead necklaces, bracelets, pendants, and rings, as well as bangles, have also been innovatively modified to display and preserve the final resting place of a loved one. The style and design of the memorial jewelry purchased are usually left to the tastes and preferences of the buyers. This is usually made possible by the array of choices that can be made available to the patrons of these types of industries.

2.1. Cremation Rings

Cremation rings for ashes are similar to traditional rings in terms of craftsmanship, but are designed to be hollow so they can hold tiny amounts of ashes, locks of hair, dirt from a special place, grains of sand, grains of rice, flower petals, snips of gauze, and other personal mementos. Choosing a cremation ring to memorialize a loved one can be a traditional way of memorializing a loved one while also creating a unique, intimate, and meaningful tribute to that person. There is not an official place in society to release someone’s ashes. Due to the individuality of every person and people’s distinct personality and wishes, cremation accessories can give relatives and friends an easy and unique approach to carry their loved ones with them wherever they go.

Cremation rings are typically made out of either solid gold or solid sterling silver, as these have some of the greatest tensile strength and stability. Most cremation ring manufacturers are willing to customize these rings by adding design patterns like those seen in traditional rings, while some may choose to inlay textured polished satin with a stone. With a variety of finishes, such as matte, brushed, or polished, cremation rings bring an elegant comfort to the grieving families or friends of the deceased.

2.2. Ashes Pendants

An ashes pendant is a piece of jewelry that is made to contain a small amount of ashes. This is often ashes that have been created through the process of cremation. In terms of memorial jewelry for ashes, a happy addition to the many other options available is pendants specifically for ashes. There are nearly twenty pages of these available, and there are only small differences between these types of pendants. The majority of examples have a tiny teaspoon-like feature which unscrews, and it is into this that the ashes are placed, although some have a screw top which is removed. In a few places, the ashes are inserted within a sterling silver bead, and this is then placed within the handcrafted glass bead where it becomes a prominent aspect of the jewelry item. Glass is one origin of a small number of ashes pendants. Glass, having been a glowing, hot object earlier in its existence, seems an appropriate material for holding the ashes of a loved one. Glass can thus be considered to be inherently and particularly special and is a gradually more common material being used.

2.3. Memorial Bracelets

Memorial bracelets have held deep significance for a very long time. They have been worn throughout the centuries by those who have suffered personal loss or as an act of remembrance of loved ones throughout history to not forget loved ones during important events. A jewelry catalog provided a wide variety of mourning bracelets, including many types of bands and designs, some holding locks of hair. These bracelets would hold between two or four locks of hair or ashes. In Pennsylvania, there is an 18th-century story of a strong, young mill worker who fatally encountered the grinding machinery. His brother collected his remains from the mill's gears and wore them in a bracelet. Similarly, during other wars and conflicts, personal memorial bracelets have been formed and given to loved ones.

For centuries, people have carried ashes of loved ones in any available material: silver, gold, glass, leather, ceramic, and more. The Victorians assigned symbolism to a wide range of jewelry made to mourn. Many bracelets held symbolic meaning and often held locks of hair of the one passed. In the Middle Ages, the wrists and arms were provided with several band bracelets made from these different materials to be worn in remembrance of loved ones. Pendant bracelets were made with gold and sterling silver. In addition, the late Victorian period saw the production of a wide variety of mourning bracelets, including ornate heavy niello chains made from silver with a deeply etched floral pattern. These were attached to acorn swivel clasps and took the shape of a chain-shaped bracelet with a padlock clasp on the end. Accompanying lockets were worn on this bracelet holding two to three locks of hair.

3. Materials and Design

Memorial jewelry is a significant and growing sector within the funeral and bereavement industry. Providing a focused exploration of this type of jewelry, this book considers the various possibilities for critical aesthetic jewelry analysis by drawing on material from contemporary art gallery practice. As a relatively recent innovation in the memorial industry, the production of memorial jewelry has been driven largely by the demands of the baby boomer generation and their experiences and attitudes toward personal loss. At this early stage, there is an evident desire for distinctive, individualistic design. The briefing process from design to its realization in material form is examined with reference to six independent bespoke studio artists and designers. This case-based research has distinguished three discernible strategies: iconographic style, referential style, and seminal designer-led style. The cases emphasize the cultural significance of different material and design narratives related to personal loss. The object, when it becomes a jewel, is transformed into a potent form of memory artifact.

3.1. Precious Metals

This jewelry enclosing a loved one’s ashes is both a meaningful and tactile vessel. The very nature of the vessel makes the object touchable and portable, opening possibilities for interaction. This embodiment of ashes also gives new meaning, making the ashes present in a manner that generally allows for moments of self-compassion despite fits of sadness. Ashes become contextualized in a particular material object, and any symbolic or religious meanings can add further significance derived from contextualizing the deceased’s ashes within a memorial piece. The jewelry is both a physical containment and can carry various symbolic meanings referencing the loved one’s presence and life here on Earth, in a personal and deep-rooted way. In this section, we give examples of different types of precious metals that are commonly used in contemporary jewelry and jewelry making.

Gold is a precious metal of a bright yellow color. It is the most malleable and ductile of all metals, and it can be spread or hammered into sheets that are very thin. Gold has relatively high chemical stability, making it an essential material for valuable coins and luxury jewelry. Gold ceases to dissolve in nitric acid alone; therefore, it is very resistant to corrosion and oxidation in the atmosphere, so this precious metal has been used in jewelry since ancient times. Gold is known to be extremely expensive, so it is often alloyed with other metals to reduce its value while preserving all of its properties. Gold alloys are also obtained by combining this metal with other precious metals, such as silver, platinum, and palladium. Gold products are marked with a special stamp that indicates the quality of the alloy. Gold jewelry is mostly mixed with palladium or, less often, silver.

3.2. Gemstones and Enamel

The Victorian era value of associating certain gemstones with particular legends and qualities could be translated into personalized schemata within the jewelry piece. An idea of the memorial brooch held in a museum gave rise to a tangible but fleeting sense of the individuality and proportion of human ash in the jewelry. Scanning electron micrographs of axially imploded ash particles that had been placed in the brooch setting revealed edgy embossed shapes.

In Victorian memorial jewelry manufactured in Germany, human ashes were often elaborately set, and hair was placed on the lid. A visible ash and/or hair seemed to have denoted that of the new owner and the timescale of memorial transfer. In contrast to closed-back gemstone items that were capped with glass, open-back designs linked the ashes or hair compartment directly to the wearer and facilitated maintenance. Rings set with twisted, nerve-like hair showed that, in time, transparent glass could delaminate after constant exposure to perspiration and other body fluids. Areas of delaminated glass that had nearly expired occurred on brooches and similar pieces, which were securely sealed to afford the details.

3.3. Customization Options

When someone makes the decision to keep a loved one's ashes as a memorial, they then face another important decision: what to do with them? While some people might carry the ashes around in an urn, it's a far more popular choice to repurpose some or all of them into wearable memorial jewelry for ashes. There are several key reasons why this is the case.

1. The tiny, physically intimate nature of making your loved one's ashes into a piece of jewelry, and thereby keeping them with you and around you everywhere you go, can feel healing and soothing. Many people find this comfort extends to helping you heal during all of life's different activities, from the most mundane, everyday ones to exciting, busy times.

2. Cremation shapes your lost loved one's ashes into a form of power and positivity. Making your loved one's ashes into a memorial is more than a little poetic and shapes the power of love and emotions you will be able to take with you everywhere you go.

3. You can also carry small objects inside your memorial jewelry, such as perfume-soaked cotton balls, to help maintain this smell and maximize the memories.

4. A memorial piece of personal jewelry is exactly that: yours, and can be just as unique and personal as the person who passed, as memories are. They offer a number of customization options for you to choose as you wish. Choose the metal, the setting, the color, and other features that are most meaningful to you, so you will get the most comfort and healing from wearing it.

In terms of functionality, you can choose from a variety of protective features, such as water resistance, tarnish prevention, or scratch protection. The weight and stature of similar jewelry items may also vary, so keep this in mind as you make your decision. More dedicated customization options, such as personalized finishes and engravings, are also available with more comprehensive memorial services.

4. Choosing Memorial Jewelry

Depending on the type of ashes you have, you may want to consider a small and simple piece of memorial jewelry like a glass locket to contain some of the ashes, a charm that can be added to an existing chain or bracelet, or a cremation jewelry ring. Many options are available. Do keep in mind that some vendors who offer memorial jewelry for very low prices may be selling pieces made of base metal coated with a thin layer of silver.

Memorial jewelry does not have to take the form of wearable items. If you don’t like jewelry, but you would still want to have the ashes of your loved one in some kind of memorial piece, there are other types of keepsakes. Depending on the type of ashes, possibilities include glass paperweights or desk displays or leaded glass suncatchers. There are also memorial products designed to contain non-cremation ashes, like paperweights and suncatchers designed for dried flower petals.

You might also decide on a custom or tailor-made memorial piece. You can contact an artisan and inquire if he or she would create a custom piece especially for you. This could be something as simple as a pendant added to jewelry you own, or as specific as a memorial ring or a glass keepsake that would complement other artworks you own. If you are in the position of offering a gift like this to someone else, a custom piece may seem especially personal and loving.

Instead of asking for the services of someone who specializes in cremation glass, you could ask a glassblower or glass fusing artist to create a custom piece and send some ashes to be added to the molten work in progress. Keep in mind, however, that glass will be porous to some extent, and you won’t be able to access the ashes once they are incorporated into the custom piece. This might work for someone who wants ashes to be an integral part of a commemorative piece.

4.1. Personal Preferences

Personal preference is very important. However, that does not mean that people should just settle, or even worse, be sold or try to be steered into the first option they see or are shown. All the various options should be made available to those with special requests or those with alternative tastes for any reason. Using the same basic theme with a different choice of colors, birthstones, or a change of design variations can all dramatically affect how a piece looks.

It is a mistake to summarily dismiss requesting a unique item as something unaffordable. Many bespoke items compare in price most favorably with the more mass-produced items, sometimes even more so. Just like any other industry, production in volume is always better for pricing and therefore for turnaround time. However, with the advent of computer-aided design and casting, production processes are rarely carried out as they once were, with sometimes higher labor costs. Producing a one-off item will always involve a greater investment. Of course, if any one-off items are produced on a more regular basis, then that optimization also reflects on that skewed pricing model, which in all practicality only really applies to just one piece at a time.

4.2. Symbolism and Meaning

Some jewelry for ashes holds specific symbolic significance. A significant number of necklaces and pendants have symbolic designs attached to them, and these carry meanings that are specific to the piece. Symbolism and style also interact with each other in the designs of memorial jewelry for ashes. There is a diverse range of styles and designs of jewelry for ashes, and these emerge across multiple aesthetic forms, including materials, shape, size, and the use of a variety of building techniques. It is clear that style is a significant factor for owners in their appreciation of merchandise. There is a discerned relationship between style and attachment, and the middle class is among the most appreciative of jewelry for ashes products that are elegant, beautiful, or spiritual.

While these aesthetics are significant factors contributing to the attachment of ownership, style is also intimately associated with symbolic meaning. Specific meanings are given to the jewelry through the various symbols represented on them, as well as their personal significance to the wearer. Such significance is embodied in a variety of visual elements, frequently with symbolic gemstone engravings or carvings, designed to represent an idea. Designed, commercially produced memorial items often have very clear artistic representations of grieving. Clothing for grieving is widely available in stores or online, and many who are grieving may choose popular symbols embroidered on fabric to indicate that they are experiencing grief. Likewise, a number of culturally specific jewelry designs distinguish and symbolize grief, frequently including necklaces or bracelets with very direct representations.